Sometimes, not all
experiments are successful. Buffalo Trace Distillery learned this the hard way with its
small barrel experiments started in 2006.
Using 5, 10, and 15 gallon barrels, the company filled each small barrel with the
same mash bill (Buffalo Trace Rye Bourbon Mash #1) around the same time, and aged
them side by side in a warehouse for six years.
The results were less than stellar. Even though the barrels did age quickly, and
picked up the deep color and smokiness from the char and wood, each bourbon yielded
less wood sugars than typical from a 53 gallon barrel, resulting in no depth of flavor.
While Buffalo Trace is NOT releasing these experiments, the Distillery did feel it
was important to release their findings. The company hopes others can learn from such an
experiment, just as they have.
“As expected, the smaller 5 gallon barrel aged bourbon faster than the 15 gallon
version. However, it’s as if they all bypassed a step in the aging process and just never
gained that depth of flavor that we expect from our bourbons. Even though these small
barrels did not meet our expectations, we feel it’s important to explore and understand the
differences between the use of various barrel sizes,†said Master Distiller Harlen
Wheatley.
Each of the three small barrel bourbons were tasted annually to check on their
maturation progress, then left alone to continue aging, hoping the taste would get better
with time. Finally, after six years, the team at Buffalo Trace concluded the barrels were
not going to taste any better and decided to chalk up the experiment to a lesson learned.
“These barrels were just so smoky and dark, we just confirmed the taste was not
going to improve. The largest of the three barrels, the 15 gallon, tasted the best, but it
still wasn’t what we would deem as meeting our quality standards. But instead of just
sweeping this experiment under the rug and not talking about it, we felt it was important
to share what we learned, especially in light of the debate about usage of small barrels.
It’s one experiment we are not likely to repeat,†said Wheatley.
These small barrel experiments are part of the more than 1,500 experimental
barrels of whiskey aging in the warehouses of Buffalo Trace Distillery. Each of these
barrels has unique characteristics that differentiate it from all others. Some examples of
these experiments include unique mash bills, type of wood and barrel toasts. In order to
further increase the scope, flexibility and range of the experimental program, an entire
micro distillery, named The Colonel E.H. Taylor, Jr. “OFC†Micro Distillery, complete
with cookers, fermenting tanks and a state-of-the-art micro still has been constructed
within Buffalo Trace Distillery.